‘It is simply thrown but it’s gold’

Zeeshan Ali has been a drag artist for 10 years and has made his show throughout India.

Central of its performance is a collection of around 45 wigs.

“It is an alter of identity, helping me to make my daily self to exaggerated, glamorous or capricious characters. The correct wig makes me more authentic and allows me to order the stage, “says Ali, based in Mumbai.

But doing that correct appearance was not easy in the first days.

“When I started my career, the accessibility of the wigs was extremely difficult in India. Most of them would be obtained from abroad or used to make wigs obtained from what was available as wool, fabric,” he says.

But things are different now.

“The trend is changing. The wigs are no longer intended for drag or cinema artists, but many heterosexual women use wigs to look different. It is no longer just a hair accessory but a style statement. “

Indian hair has always been sued for the manufacture of wigs. The nation is the largest world exporter in human hair, which provides 85% of global demand.

Kolachi Venkatesh, based in Avadi, Chennai, has been collecting hair for 20 years. It began at the bottom of the industry as a collector: collecting the hair from the homes and rescuing it from the garbage.

“My parents were hair collectors and then I began to do the same,” he says.

The hair collected by homes of households, rooms and beards is called non -relevant hair.

It requires more processing than Remy Hair, which is carefully shaved directly from the scalp. However, it has value.

“It simply throws itself but it’s gold,” says Mr. Venkatesh.

These collectors generally sell hair to local merchants such as Mr. Venkatesh for between 10 cents and $ 1 (£ 0.80) per kilogram, depending on the quality and length of the hair.

The shortest or damaged hair gets less, while the longest threads bring higher prices.

For the individual selector, there is not much money in him.

“A diligent collector could gather 1 to 5 kilograms of hair in one day, winning between 59 cents to $ 6 per day. This income level is often below the minimum wage standards, particularly in rural areas, ”says Mr. Venkatesh, who has 50 collectors working for him.

“While our work contributes to a global market of one billion dollars, our profits remain scarce. Intermediaries control prices. ”

The majority of Indian hair collected by merchants such as Mr. Venkatesh is exported to China, where he becomes wigs.

“China has a large wig industry that is worth between five and six billion dollars,” says Benjamin Cherian de Plexconcil, the body of the hair industry promoted by the Indian industry and puts in touch with the government.

If India wants a portion of the lucrative wig market, he says, then he has a lot to do.

“When we look at China, there are hundreds of factories distributed throughout the country that add value to the hair industry, while in India the addition of value must still be collected,” says Cherian.

He says the government needs to help promote investment in the hair industry.

“You need automated classification systems, sophisticated hair treatment procedures collected, innovative production techniques for the manufacture of wigs that will make India stand out.”

Instead of exporting hair for hundreds of dollars, India should be selling wigs worth thousands of dollars says Mr. Cherian.

“We have started working on it, but it is a long way to go. We need to have research and training centers, “he says.

An Indian business that tries to make unneches is Divine Divine with headquarters in Delhi, co -founded by Nidhi Tiwari in 2009.

The idea was to create high quality hair extensions and wigs that attract a broader range of customers.

“There is a growing need for these solutions due to the increase in hair loss and thinning problems among women in India,” says Mrs. Tiwari.

The company has been helped by an attitude change.

“Once considered a niche or taboo issue, wigs and extensions are now discussed openly, thanks to evolving social norms and a change towards acceptance,” she says.

The wigs have also seen a lot of development making them more attractive and comfortable.

“Technologies such as 3D printed wigs and digital color combat tools offer highly personalized options. Light and breathable wig covers and improved adhesives have given customers to use it for a long time without discomfort,” says Mrs. .

At the upper end of the hair market is the hair of the temple or Remy.

Much of the supply comes from Hindu temples in the south of the country where hair shaves in an act of veneration and faith.

Raj Hair International is one of the largest merchants in the temple hair business.

The artisans in the company Chennai of the company classify and qualify the hair according to color, texture and length.

“Rey hair has aligned the cuticles, hair flows evenly in one direction, which leads to less tangles and a more silk texture.

The firm tries to waste as much hair amount. To help with that, he developed a machine to unravel the hair. It allows them to work faster with less personnel.

“Our mission is to constantly update technology,” says Cherion.

The business is booming.

“The Indian human has a worldwide demand due to its high quality, natural aspect and thinness. Demand is shooting,” he says.

Back in Mumbai, Zeeshan Ali wants to see more Indian wigs in the market.

In addition to making them more affordable, it has a design suggestion: “A wig that can create a surprise factor.”